Mont Blanc Bûche de Noël

I have been making bûche for a few years now.  This year's flavour is Mont Blanc probably because I was sorely disappointed that I could not find a Mont Blanc cake when I was in Chamonix, France to see Mont Blanc the mountain.

Let's get right into to how make.

Decor:

Meringues
Adapted from Ladurée Sucre

• 2 egg whites
• 30 g extra fine sugar
• lemon juice
• 2 callets of Valrhona Ivoire white chocolate

1. This is a "make-ahead".  Whip egg whites until frothy, add a splash of lemon juice.
2. Continue to whip until medium peaks, slowly stream in sugar.
3. Whip until stiff peaks and glossy
4. Pipe dollops (mushrooms, stems, snowman, etc.) and logs onto an ungreased parchment sheet
5. Bake at 175F (or lower if possible) for 3 hours

6. Melt white chocolate in microwave at 10 seconds interval on high power

7. Use a micro plane to file the tops of meringue mushrooms stems

8. Dip the top of the mushroom stems in chocolate, place meringue mushroom cap on top, let it set
9. Store in loosely covered container

Decor:

Sugared Cranberries & Rosemary

Adapted from Sally's Baking Addiction

• 1 cup (100g) fresh cranberries and/or other berries (do not use frozen)
• 4–5 rosemary sprigs
• 3/4 cup (180ml) water
• 1 and 1/4 cups (250g) granulated sugar, divided

1. Place berries and rosemary in a large heatproof bowl. Set aside. 
2. In a medium saucepan set over medium heat, bring the water and 3/4 cup (150g) of sugar to a simmer 
3. Remove the pan from heat and allow to cool for 5 minutes. 
4. Pour the sugar syrup over the cranberries and rosemary and stir. 
5. Cover the bowl and set aside for 15 minutes. 
6. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. 
7. Using chopsticks or slotted spoon, transfer the cranberries and rosemary from the sugar syrup and place them on the prepared baking sheet. 
8. Allow to dry, uncovered, for 1 hour. 
9. Pour remaining 1/2 cup (100g) sugar into a large bowl. 
10. Toss the cranberries and rosemary in the sugar, coating them all the way around. 

11. Place on a parchment paper—or silicone baking mat-lined baking sheet and let them dry uncovered for at least 1 hour at room temperature or in the refrigerator. 
12. Cover tightly and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. 

Filling:

Chestnut Paste

Buy a jar of chestnut spread.  Done

Or make your own.  See here.

Filling & Topping: 

Stabilized Whipped Cream

From Baking by James Peterson

• 750 mL (3 cups) of heavy cream
• 75 g of sugar
• 3 teaspoons of gelatin
• 3 tablespoons of cold water

1. Sprinkle gelatin over cold water, let bloom, about 5 minutes

2. Beat whipping cream to stiff peaks, slowly stream in sugar. It will not stiffen up any more after the addition of gelatin

3. Put bloomed gelatin into microwave and heat for 10 seconds on high power.

4. Slowly, stream in the liquified gelatin into the whipped cream, continue to whisk until incorporated

5. Store covered in fridge for 1 hour

6. Whip the cream until smooth again before using

7. Divide 1/3 of the whipped cream out and set aside for chestnut whipped cream

8. Fill the remaining whipped cream into a piping bag with a large round tip

Filling & Topping: 

Chestnut Whipped Cream

Adapted from Hiroko's Recipes

• 1/3 of stabilized whipped cream from previous
• 240 g of sweetened chestnut paste
• 2 teaspoons of rum

1.  Add all ingredients, whip until incorporated

2. Fill a piping bag with ATECO S/S #259 tip (grass tip)

Filling Alternative: 

Chestnut Cream and Marrons Crème

Adapted from Cannelle et Vanille

Chestnut Cream

• 439 grams unsweetened chestnut puree, canned, preferably French
• 439 grams chestnut paste, buy it or make your own
• 454 grams unsalted butter, softened
• 4 tsp vanilla extract
• 4 Tbs dark rum

Marrons Crème

• 165 g of chestnut cream
• 15 g of stabilized whipped cream

*Refer to my Gateau Mont Blanc post for procedure

**Not super recommended as it is difficult to spread and pipe

Sponge Cake

Adapted from Sally's Baking Addiction

• 1 and 1/3 cups (157g) cake flour
• 2 Tablespoons (10g) unsweetened natural or dutch-process cocoa powder
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 6 large eggs, separated and at room temperature
• 1 cup (200g) granulated sugar, divided
• 2 Tablespoons (30ml) vegetable oil, canola oil, or melted coconut oil
• 1 and 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (177°C). 

2. Spray a 12×17-inch baking pan with nonstick spray or grease with butter, so the 3. parchment paper sticks. Then line it with parchment paper so the cake

seamlessly releases. 

Make the cake:

4. Whisk the cake flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt together in a medium bowl. Set aside until the next step. 

5. Using a hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and 1/2 cup (100g) sugar together on high speed for 4-5 minutes or until stiff peaks form. 

6. In another bowl, add the egg yolks, remaining sugar, oil, and vanilla extract. Beat together on high speed for 3-4 minutes or until thickened and light in color.

7. Add a quarter of the whipped egg whites into the egg yolk mixture. Beat on low speed for 10 seconds. 

8. Add remaining egg whites and fold. 

9. Add half of the flour mixture and fold with a silicone spatula until combined. 

10. Repeat with remaining flour mixture. Avoid over-mixing and deflating those egg whites. Batter will be very light.

11. Spread batter evenly into prepared pan. Gently bang the pan on the counter a couple times to pop any air bubbles. 

12. Bake for 15-16 minutes or until the cake springs back when lightly poked with your finger. Cake will look a little bubbly on top when it’s done. That’s ok. Avoid over-baking cake because it will crack if over-baked. As the cake bakes, get started on the next step.

Prepare to roll: 

1. As the cake bakes, place a piece of parchment paper (larger than the cake) 

2. Once the cake comes out of the oven, quickly run a knife around the edges to loosen it. 

3. Place the sheet of parchment paper onto the top of the cake.  Run a spatula all over the top to ensure even adhesion. 

4. Place a cooling rack on top of the cake and immediately invert it and remove the baking pan.

5. Peel off the parchment paper that was on the bottom of the cake as it baked. 

6. Begin tightly rolling the hot cake up with the parchment top and bottom. Do this slowly and gently. The cake will be warm. 

7. Allow the cake to cool completely rolled up in the parchment. Feel free to place it in the refrigerator to speed it up, about 3 hours and up to 1 day.

Assembly:

1. Gently and very slowly unroll the cake. 

2. Pipe and spread the filling with an offset spatula in this order: a) chestnut paste, thin layer, b) chestnut whipped cream, 1/8" c) stabilized whipped cream, 1/8", leaving about a 1/2 inch border around the cake. 

3. Place your meringue log at one end of the cake where you will roll up first so it will be in the center. 

4. Gently roll the cake back up.  Use the parchment paper to guide you but do not roll it in.  Peel it back as you roll the cake up. Roll it slowly. This part is messy. 

5. Carefully place on a cutting board. 

6. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 days before shaping and decorating.

7. Pipe and spread stabilized whipped cream on the outside of the bûche.  You can create tree bark texture by running a fork gently on the whipped cream.

8. Pipe chestnut whipped cream on top of the bûche with the grass/#259 tip

9. Decorate with sugared berries and rosemary, meringues, and dust with cocoa powder if desired.

*When serving, run the knife under hot water and wipe dry first.

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The cake is better to let it mature overnight to allow for the sponge cake to absorb some moisture from the creams, otherwise, it might be a bit dry.

I did try using my original Gateau Mont Blanc recipe for the fillings - marrons crème & chestnut cream - the don't spread well nor pipe smoothly.  The chestnut whipped cream works a lot better.

Make sure your meringues are compact and glossy so they can withstand moisture better and less fragile.

The sponge can probably be pared down to a 4-egg recipe for a thinner cake for better cake to flavour balance/ratio.

I cannot stress the importance of stabilizing your whipped cream.  It prevents it from weeping in the fridge (leaking water), it prevents it from melting when left out in room temperature, and it is just overall a more structurally sturdy cream that can withstand some shock during transport.  1 teaspoon per cup of whipping cream to stabilize.

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Snowflake Crisp 雪花穌/雪Q餅

Remember that "Not Nougat" post a number of years ago? LOL I haven't forgotten. I love nougat, but I did not like the burns it gave me in an attempt to make them. In comes this new trend, or nougat alternative, from Taiwan - xue hua su or xue Q bing (雪花穌/雪Q餅) - roughly translated to Snowflake Crisp/Snowy Fudge/Snowy Biscuit/Snowy Cookie/Snowflake Fudge...you get the drift.

How is it an alternative? Well, it still has the dried fruits and nuts that are classic of a nougat, but instead of doing some witchcraft with the expensive cocoa butter, it uses melted down marshmallows. Oh, and throw in some biscuits in the mix for a bit of a crunch too. All of this done on low heat. Seems safe 👌

There can be many varieties of flavours of Snowflake Crisp, such as:

- Original (just almonds)

- Oreo w/almonds

- Cranberries & pistachios

- Salted egg yolk w/almonds

- Matcha & cashews

"Hey, what if I don't like/can't have nuts?" 

I don't care, do without. I don't like them either 😂 Just don't leave out the biscuits.

Basic Snowflake Crisp Recipe

150g marshmallows

40g unsalted butter

45g powdered milk

180g Marie biscuits

Mix-ins

60g dried fruits

60g nuts

*I used cranberries, currants, chocolate chips, cocoa nibs

Makes 24 (3 x 4 x 2.5 cm) squares

Steps

1. Measure out ingredients, chop or break them as necessary. 

2. Mise en place and get ready! 

3. Melt butter on medium-low heat

4. Once butter has been melted, add marshmallows to melt, stir often. Adjust heat as necessary. Do not burn. 

5. Add powdered milk to the melted marshmallows, turn off heat, and fold until fully incorporated.

6. Add mix-ins and fold. 

7. Dust a pan with powdered milk and transfer the Snowflake Crisp to the pan, dust with more powdered milk. 

8. Press to flatten evenly and shape.

9. Let cool a little bit and cut into squares while still warm

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I thought it would be rather sweet from the marshmallows and dried fruits and even the chocolate, but I think the biscuits balanced out the sweetness quite a bit. 

Feel free to experiment with flavours or even make your own flavoured marshmallows for more exciting flavour combos! 

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Variations 

Matcha & Strawberries

30g Freeze dried strawberries 

5g matcha (more for dusting) 

Biscuits, milk powder, nuts, etc. stays the same

Pina Colada

30g dried mangoes, chopped

15g freeze dried pineapples

30g dried shredded coconut 

5g coconut milk powder

Biscuits, milk powder, nuts, etc. stays the same

 Sakura Mochi Variations 1

Sakura mochi is typically divided into Kanto style and Kansai style.  There are also other variations depending on the particular wagashi sweets shop.

Kanto style may sometimes be called Choumeiji sakura mochi named after a temple near the shop that first sold such style of sakura mochi.  Choumeiji sakura mochi has a distinct appearance of a thin pink mochi crepe rolled around a log of red bean paste and covered with a pickled sakura leaf.

Kansai style may also be called Doumyouji sakura mochi named after the temple that first invented the style of rice flour that is used for this version of sakura mochi.  The doumyouji mochi has a pink, rough grainy texture of mochi that contains red bean paste inside and covered with a pickled cherry blossom leaf.

My conclusion is that a sakura mochi should have these things:

1. Pink mochi exterior
2. Pickled sakura leaf covering
3. Some sort of bean paste filling

I'll be making the Kanto style and its variation, Fukusa Tsutsumi style this time.  Fukusa style seems to have shown up at Ginza Akebono sweets shop and Ginza Kuya sweets shop.

Choumeiji Sakura Mochi

1 tbsp shiratama-ko (sub. mochiko if none)

40 g cake flour

1 tsp sugar

1 tbsp water

80 mL milk (or water)

red food coloring

240 g red bean paste (divide into 30 g portions)

8 pickled cherry blossom leaves

Makes 8

1. Dissolve shiratama-ko with 1 tbsp of water, scraping the bowl with a rubber spatula to break the clumps.
2. Add milk (or water) in 4 additions.  Each time dissolving as much shiratama-ko as possible before the next addition.
3. Add food coloring before the final addition of milk or water.
4. Sift in cake flour and combine well.
5. Let stand for 30 minutes, then stir to combine again.
6. Soak pickled sakura leaves in a bowl of fresh water for 10 minutes to desalinate.  Pat dry with paper towel.
7. Heat a non-stick pan on very, very low heat.
8. Brush some oil onto the pan and wipe off excess.
9. Pour about 1 tbsp of batter onto the pan and use the bottom of a spoon to help spread the batter thinly and into an oval shape.
10. You'll see the batter change colors slightly, this should be the cue that it can be peeled off the pan and flip over.
11. Grill the other side for a few seconds.
12. Store covered in plastic wrap while you make the rest of the crepes to prevent drying.
13. Divide red bean paste into 30g portions and shape into logs (don't think, just do  LOL)
14. Drape the crepe over the red bean paste and roll it, user the prettier side.
15. Wrap the roll with a sakura leaf with the underside (veins) facing out.

Fukusa Tsutsumi Sakura Mochi

50 g shiratama-ko (sub. mochiko)

70 g sugar

90 g AP flour, sifted

250 mL (1 cup) water

red or pink food coloring

300 g shiro-an white bean paste (divide into 25 g portions)

12 pickled cherry blossom leaves

(A) Some kinako roasted soybean powder

(B) Some sugar

Katakuri-ko potato starch for dusting

Makes 12

1. Start with mixing a tiny amount of water with the shiratama-ko and dissolve the clumps as much as possible.  Add more water a tablespoon at a time when its saturated to continue dissolving.
2. Add sugar, add 75 mL (1/4 cup) water, dissolve.
3. Sift in flour, add another 75 mL water, mix.
4. Add food coloring.
5. Add the remaining water, mix.
6. Let stand for 10 minutes, then mix again.
7. In a tiny heat-safe bowl, put in 30 mL (2 tbsp) of batter and cover with plastic wrap.
8. Microwave for 30 second on 600W power
9. Dust your work surface with potato starch
10. Dust the top of the dough in your little bowl before digging it out onto the work surface with a rubber spatula
11. Dust the rest of the surface of the dough with potato starch
12. With a rolling pin, start rolling the dough out into a thin circular crepe.  You can roll in a circular an outward motion to create the shape (think dumping skins if you've ever made them)
13. Store under plastic wrap and make and another crepe using Steps 7-12.
14. Mix (A) and (B) together in a small bowl, set aside.
15. Divide your white bean paste into 25 g portions.
16. Roll the bean paste into a ball and flatten slightly.
17. Toss into the bowl from Step 14 to coat with kinako powder.
18. Place the coated bean paste filling in the center of the crepe
19. Bring the top and bottom edges of the crepe to the center, wet the overlapping area an gently press to seal.
20. Bring the left and right edges of the crepe to the center, wet the overlapping area and gently press to seal. Dust with potato starch if there are wet spots.
21. Soak cherry blossom leaves in fresh water to desalinate for 10 minutes.  Pat dry with paper towel.
22. Place mochi on a cherry blossom leaf.
23. You can dust with icing sugar just before serving.

Afterthought

I did not care for the chomeiji crepes done on the pan for a few reasons:

• It was difficult to spread the batter as it cooked very quickly on even "min" setting, so it ended up being a bit thick
• Produced a smooth, shiny, but tacky side and a dry but rough side
• Crepe overall tasted dry and flavorless, probably needed more sugar
• Crepe felt rubbery and has no elasticity LOL

I had a much better experience with the Fukusa style crepes because:

• I can control how thin I wanted it
• Is not tacky, both sides can be presentable/usable
• Crepe is soft and has elasticity.  Easy to manipulate when wrapping.
• Texture is also soft and mochi-mochi feel when eating

I might be inclined to use the Fukusa style crepe to make the chomeiji even if that is not the traditional method.  It just has a better overall texture.

As for the filling, I generally don't enjoy red bean paste because I find the flavor too bold and overpowering.  I much enjoyed the white bean paste filling.  The kinako definitely added another nutty flavor dimension to it.  The only improvement I might make is add a piece of fruit in the bean paste center, it was a bit much bean paste there and it was a little monotonous in terms of texture.

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10/09/21

Edit: changed Ginza style to Fukusa Tsutsumi style after learning its proper name.