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Wednesday, December 25, 2024

Mont Blanc Bûche de Noël


I have been making bûche for a few years now.  This year's flavour is Mont Blanc probably because I was sorely disappointed that I could not find a Mont Blanc cake when I was in Chamonix, France to see Mont Blanc the mountain.




Let's get right into to how make.

Decor:
Meringues
Adapted from Ladurée Sucre

  • 2 egg whites
  • 30 g extra fine sugar
  • lemon juice
  • 2 callets of Valrhona Ivoire white chocolate

1. This is a "make-ahead".  Whip egg whites until frothy, add a splash of lemon juice.
2. Continue to whip until medium peaks, slowly stream in sugar.
3. Whip until stiff peaks and glossy
4. Pipe dollops (mushrooms, stems, snowman, etc.) and logs onto an ungreased parchment sheet
5. Bake at 175F (or lower if possible) for 3 hours
6. Melt white chocolate in microwave at 10 seconds interval on high power
7. Use a micro plane to file the tops of meringue mushrooms stems
8. Dip the top of the mushroom stems in chocolate, place meringue mushroom cap on top, let it set
9. Store in loosely covered container




Decor:
Sugared Cranberries & Rosemary

  • 1 cup (100g) fresh cranberries and/or other berries (do not use frozen)
  • 4–5 rosemary sprigs
  • 3/4 cup (180ml) water
  • 1 and 1/4 cups (250g) granulated sugar, divided

1. Place berries and rosemary in a large heatproof bowl. Set aside. 
2. In a medium saucepan set over medium heat, bring the water and 3/4 cup (150g) of sugar to a simmer 
3. Remove the pan from heat and allow to cool for 5 minutes. 
4. Pour the sugar syrup over the cranberries and rosemary and stir. 
5. Cover the bowl and set aside for 15 minutes. 
6. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. 
7. Using chopsticks or slotted spoon, transfer the cranberries and rosemary from the sugar syrup and place them on the prepared baking sheet. 
8. Allow to dry, uncovered, for 1 hour. 
9. Pour remaining 1/2 cup (100g) sugar into a large bowl. 
10. Toss the cranberries and rosemary in the sugar, coating them all the way around. 
11. Place on a parchment paper—or silicone baking mat-lined baking sheet and let them dry uncovered for at least 1 hour at room temperature or in the refrigerator. 
12. Cover tightly and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. 





Filling:
Chestnut Paste

Buy a jar of chestnut spread.  Done
Or make your own.  See here.



Filling & Topping: 
Stabilized Whipped Cream
From Baking by James Peterson

  • 750 mL (3 cups) of heavy cream
  • 75 g of sugar
  • 3 teaspoons of gelatin
  • 3 tablespoons of cold water

1. Sprinkle gelatin over cold water, let bloom, about 5 minutes
2. Beat whipping cream to stiff peaks, slowly stream in sugar. It will not stiffen up any more after the addition of gelatin
3. Put bloomed gelatin into microwave and heat for 10 seconds on high power.
4. Slowly, stream in the liquified gelatin into the whipped cream, continue to whisk until incorporated
5. Store covered in fridge for 1 hour
6. Whip the cream until smooth again before using
7. Divide 1/3 of the whipped cream out and set aside for chestnut whipped cream
8. Fill the remaining whipped cream into a piping bag with a large round tip


Filling & Topping: 
Chestnut Whipped Cream
Adapted from Hiroko's Recipes

  • 1/3 of stabilized whipped cream from previous
  • 240 g of sweetened chestnut paste
  • 2 teaspoons of rum

1.  Add all ingredients, whip until incorporated
2. Fill a piping bag with ATECO S/S #259 tip (grass tip)

Filling Alternative: 
Chestnut Cream and Marrons Crème
Adapted from Cannelle et Vanille

Chestnut Cream
  • 439 grams unsweetened chestnut puree, canned, preferably French
  • 439 grams chestnut paste, buy it or make your own
  • 454 grams unsalted butter, softened
  • 4 tsp vanilla extract
  • 4 Tbs dark rum

Marrons Crème
  • 165 g of chestnut cream
  • 15 g of stabilized whipped cream

*Refer to my Gateau Mont Blanc post for procedure
**Not super recommended as it is difficult to spread and pipe




Sponge Cake

  • 1 and 1/3 cups (157g) cake flour
  • 2 Tablespoons (10g) unsweetened natural or dutch-process cocoa powder
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 6 large eggs, separated and at room temperature
  • 1 cup (200g) granulated sugar, divided
  • 2 Tablespoons (30ml) vegetable oil, canola oil, or melted coconut oil
  • 1 and 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (177°C). 
2. Spray a 12×17-inch baking pan with nonstick spray or grease with butter, so the 3. parchment paper sticks. Then line it with parchment paper so the cake
seamlessly releases. 


Make the cake:
4. Whisk the cake flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt together in a medium bowl. Set aside until the next step. 
5. Using a hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and 1/2 cup (100g) sugar together on high speed for 4-5 minutes or until stiff peaks form. 
6. In another bowl, add the egg yolks, remaining sugar, oil, and vanilla extract. Beat together on high speed for 3-4 minutes or until thickened and light in color.
7. Add a quarter of the whipped egg whites into the egg yolk mixture. Beat on low speed for 10 seconds. 
8. Add remaining egg whites and fold. 
9. Add half of the flour mixture and fold with a silicone spatula until combined. 
10. Repeat with remaining flour mixture. Avoid over-mixing and deflating those egg whites. Batter will be very light.
11. Spread batter evenly into prepared pan. Gently bang the pan on the counter a couple times to pop any air bubbles. 
12. Bake for 15-16 minutes or until the cake springs back when lightly poked with your finger. Cake will look a little bubbly on top when it’s done. That’s ok. Avoid over-baking cake because it will crack if over-baked. As the cake bakes, get started on the next step.

Prepare to roll: 
1. As the cake bakes, place a piece of parchment paper (larger than the cake) 
2. Once the cake comes out of the oven, quickly run a knife around the edges to loosen it. 
3. Place the sheet of parchment paper onto the top of the cake.  Run a spatula all over the top to ensure even adhesion. 
4. Place a cooling rack on top of the cake and immediately invert it and remove the baking pan.
5. Peel off the parchment paper that was on the bottom of the cake as it baked. 
6. Begin tightly rolling the hot cake up with the parchment top and bottom. Do this slowly and gently. The cake will be warm. 
7. Allow the cake to cool completely rolled up in the parchment. Feel free to place it in the refrigerator to speed it up, about 3 hours and up to 1 day.

Assembly:

1. Gently and very slowly unroll the cake. 
2. Pipe and spread the filling with an offset spatula in this order: a) chestnut paste, thin layer, b) chestnut whipped cream, 1/8" c) stabilized whipped cream, 1/8", leaving about a 1/2 inch border around the cake. 
3. Place your meringue log at one end of the cake where you will roll up first so it will be in the center. 
4. Gently roll the cake back up.  Use the parchment paper to guide you but do not roll it in.  Peel it back as you roll the cake up. Roll it slowly. This part is messy. 
5. Carefully place on a cutting board. 
6. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 days before shaping and decorating.

7. Pipe and spread stabilized whipped cream on the outside of the bûche.  You can create tree bark texture by running a fork gently on the whipped cream.
8. Pipe chestnut whipped cream on top of the bûche with the grass/#259 tip
9. Decorate with sugared berries and rosemary, meringues, and dust with cocoa powder if desired.

*When serving, run the knife under hot water and wipe dry first.


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The cake is better to let it mature overnight to allow for the sponge cake to absorb some moisture from the creams, otherwise, it might be a bit dry.

I did try using my original Gateau Mont Blanc recipe for the fillings - marrons crème & chestnut cream - the don't spread well nor pipe smoothly.  The chestnut whipped cream works a lot better.

Make sure your meringues are compact and glossy so they can withstand moisture better and less fragile.

The sponge can probably be pared down to a 4-egg recipe for a thinner cake for better cake to flavour balance/ratio.

I cannot stress the importance of stabilizing your whipped cream.  It prevents it from weeping in the fridge (leaking water), it prevents it from melting when left out in room temperature, and it is just overall a more structurally sturdy cream that can withstand some shock during transport.  1 teaspoon per cup of whipping cream to stabilize.


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